Essex might not be the first place you think of for an East Anglian escape, but it should be. This characterful county’s got the lot; vibrant towns, gorgeous beaches, National Trust sites, fascinating history, loads to see and do and more than its fair share of amazing pubs and restaurants. Want to know more? Read on.

WHERE TO STAY

Luxe hotels

For a Downton Abbey vibe book Down Hall, an Italianate mansion in 110 acres of parkland in Hatfield Heath on the Essex/Herts border. Rooms are super luxe (think four-poster beds, balconies and free-standing bathtubs) and there’s an excellent restaurant serving fresh, seasonal food, a pretty terrace (an amazing spot for afternoon tea) and Eden Spa, a destination in its own right. Kids are welcome too, with a Sharky & George Adventure Club taking care of the minis while you get a massage/mani/sleep.

Once a private home immortalised on canvas by famous local artist John Constable, today Wivenhoe House is a hotel mixing historical glam – twinkling chandeliers, high ceilings, marble fireplaces and 200-acre grounds – with loads of modern touches. It’s a popular spot with locals and tourists thanks to its fancy Brasserie serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and an insane afternoon tea.

Milsoms is an Essex escape I’m not sure I want to share. Tucked away in Dedham Vale, (that’s Constable Country and an area of outstanding natural beauty) this blissful hideaway has a country house vibe with 15 lovely rooms and a restaurant, bar and grounds so good people are prepared to travel across the country to get their fix. Close by lies its sister hotel, Talbooth House & Spa , also in Dedham Vale and equally as special, with a knock-out restaurant overlooking the River Stour, luxury bedrooms named after English poets plus a pool and spa. Just don’t ask me to choose my favourite.

Star-lovers will adore GreyFriars Hotel in Colchester as it has five of them. Michelin recommended, it’s based in a handsome, Georgian building a short hop from the town’s castle, and has 26 grand rooms and suites and Art-Deco-style Cloisters; its fine dining restaurant. Don’t miss the cocktail bar (the menu is looooong), choosing your tipple then sipping it on the terrace.

The Seven Hotel in Southend adds some sparkle to the UK’s latest city. I love the Aurum restaurant serving up local faves like Mersea oysters and Essex burrata (Jamie Oliver’s a fan), plus the sea-facing rooms with balconies. Or, head to the Roslin Beach Hotel in Thorpe Bay. It’s a favourite haunt of many an Essex celeb, no surprise when it boasts sumptuous rooms, an AA rosette-awarded restaurant and spa bursting with ESPA and Elemis goodies. Book The Mulberry Suite for super-king luxury and panoramic sea views.

The White Hart Inn on Mersea Island is a great gastro pub with restaurant and six bedrooms. All have super king beds with 4000 pocket sprung mattresses and Egyptian cotton, and are individually designed with bespoke fabrics and furniture, quirky finds and local artwork. Food-wise the menu changes seasonally, but right now expect tasty delights like seafood platters, handmade tagliatelle and rare breed burgers to chow down on.

Spa escapes

The Lifehouse Spa & Hotel in Thorpe-le-Soken is set in 12 acres of beautifully-kept gardens with a treatment list as long as your seaweed-cocooned, salt-scrubbed arm, including Clarins and ELEMIS facials and body treatments, wellness experiences like singing bowl sound baths and facial acupuncture, and mani-pedis in the OPI Prosecco & Nail Suite.

Looking for a reset? Glass House Retreat in Upminster is where you need to check-in. We’re talking a personalised, 360˚ approach to wellbeing, from new-gen spa treatments and a cryotherapy chamber (nothing like standing in -100˚ for four minutes to get your skin glowing) to delicious organic plant-based food, yoga and meditation and aromatherapy workshops. Brownie points for its eco cred – solar panels, ground source heat pump, and rain-water recycling.

Self-catering boltholes

Some of Essex’s cottages and country piles could out chocolate-box any Devon or Cornwall getaways. Take The Old Farmhouse in the pretty village of Finchingfield. This pink, timber-framed beauty dates back to the 16th century but is full of modern touches, like Smart TVs, open-plan kitchen/diner, three luxe bedrooms (it sleeps six) and outside hot tub. Best of all, you can help yourself to seasonal veg and fruit in the kitchen garden and stroll to the vineyard where there’s a hut for drinking and dining with a countryside view.

Creeksea Place Barns on the banks of the River Crouch on the outskirts of Burnham on Crouch – aka the Cowes of the East Coast – is another gem. Whether you’re looking for a romantic break for two in one of their luxuriously converted barns, or to take over the whole place with up to 30 family and friends, its a wonderful place to get away from it all. All barns have access to a barbecue area, courtyard, Parlour Café, small gym, spa and even a golf course – weekend break heaven.

And Duck Duck Goose in Little Bentley, which was previously a popular Scandi-style, family-friendly café in a barn where mums met with their toddlers, was transformed during Covid into a luxe self-catering escape with the same cool interior chic that made us all flock there in the past for lattes and gossip.

WHERE TO EAT

Restaurants with rooms

Some of Essex’s top places to dine handily have a few luxurious rooms too, meaning you can scoff and quaff before rolling into bed! The Cricketers in Clavering has been on any self-respecting Essex food-lover’s radar for years – it used to be run by Jamie Oliver’s parents and was where he honed his skills in the kitchen. Now it’s part of the Chestnut Group (they have lots of hot spots in East Anglia) and its gastropub credentials are better than ever, with 22 refurbed rooms (categorised good, better and best) and a really strong menu, featuring local lamb, homemade pasta and a stonking Sunday roast.

The Pier in Harwich has got it going on. For starters it’s a contemporary harbourside hotel with Scandi and US flair, 14 rooms and, most importantly, an upstairs restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows and cooking of such high quality it should definitely be on your must-visit list. It’s by the sea, so the menu naturally has an emphasis on seafood (the local oysters are SO good), but there are plenty of meat and veggie options too.

Muddy enjoys nothing better than a meal and overnight stay at The Sun Inn in Dedham, with its cosy atmosphere and exceptional food. Kick off with a glass of red by the fire in the nook followed by mussels with white wine, cream, garlic, parsley and shallots (yeah, baby) before heading upstairs to sleep it all off in the Dovecot (one of seven rooms) beneath a large skylight. Pig & Truffle, next to the River Chelmer in Little Dunmow, is all about natural food and British ingredients, like slow cooked Dingley Dell pork belly with Koffman cabbage, truffled celeriac cream and puy lentil gravy. Bonus points for its three lavish bedrooms upstairs, ensuring eating and drinking until you feel sleepy isn’t a problem.

By the sea

If you want to dine right by the sea (we’re talking barefoot on the beach) make a beeline for Ocean Beach on Thorpe Bay at Southend, which has a cool outside seating area right on the sand. Order an Aperol Spritz and tuck into a coconut tiger prawn salad beneath one of the cream parasols – your Insta reel will look like you’ve flown long-haul. And Frinton-On-Sea’s Pier One restaurant is a nautically-inspired new eatery serving up all things fishy, from plates of whitebait to catch of the day.

On Mersea Island you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to decent places to devour seafood by the sea. Food critics rave about The Company Shed, where you can buy local oysters for half the price you’d pay in London. Just check their menu out here and pretend you’re not salivating. On the other side of the rue you’ll find The Coast Inn, another lovely spot for sharing a seafood platter (the fish and chips are also great!), with a big garden for summer and roaring fire in winter.

Something special

A former coach house, Haywards Restaurant in Epping serves the kind of fancy ‘I never make this at home’ flavoursome dishes worth making the journey for. Their events list is pretty impressive and reasonably priced when you consider what you’re getting. You can even book them for private dining, too.

Family-run Vietnamese restaurant Bambu is another Muddy fave. Hidden away in The Hythe on the edge of Colchester, the plant-filled terrace with reclaimed wood furniture feels like an enchanting secret and the food tastes so fresh and authentic (I rate the Pho bowls).

The Windmill Chatham Green is one of those places you recommend to friends (trust us, just read our review here). Besides the dishes being almost too pretty too eat (we said almost), they are also, in the words of Chitty Chatty Bang Bang, truly scrumptious. We say go for the tasting menus with plates including truffle-crusted stone bass with baby leek and seaweed cream just one to entice you.

Michelin-recommended Food can be found in Leigh-on-Sea and focusses on health, wellbeing, creativity and flavour. Inspired by the seasons, their menu changes daily based on the produce available. They’re also supporters of sustainability, zero wastage and sourcing produce within a short distance of our their stylish space.

Tuck into Mediterranean-Inspired nosh at Aspera Restaurant in Benfleet, a lovely low-lit, relaxed restaurant, where staff are super friendly and the cocktail menu is massive. We say kick things off with a Bellini (or three).

The Pig & Whistle restaurant just outside Chelmsford is a special spot, and one we return to time and time again. Besides the fact it’s a Muddy Essex Awards 2022 winner, it’s one for us adults, with no kids under 10 permitted. Pop in for the set lunch menu at just £24 for three courses, or make a night of it and go à la carte – 20oz chateaubriand for the win.

And for the finest fish dishes outside the capital, those in-the-know rave about Alec’s Restaurant in Navestock and Felix Warley (grilled fruit de mer with garlic parsley sauce is a fave dish) in Brentwood, while at Smith’s of Ongar, the setting, service and food are always on point.

Gastropubs

Essex is dotted with delectable gastro pubs, places where the setting and drinks are as good as the triple-cooked chips. Galvin Green Man is definitely one for your must-visit list. You’ll find it in countryside near Great Waltham serving up lip-smackingly great dishes with ingredients sourced from local providers, like breast of Suffolk chicken with buttered cabbage, carrot purée, pickled blackberry and chicken jus.

Fox on the Green in Finchingfield is another belter. A former 16th century coaching inn overlooking the village green, it serves the kind of classic comfort dishes we all crave like beer-battered haddock or topside of beef Sunday roast. The Dog & Pickle in Moreton (winner of our Destination Pub 2022 awards) is a top 50 gastro pub, while award-winning The Hoop in Stock is all about classics with a gourmet twist, like toad in the hoop (love it) with mash and gravy.

Cafés & delis

With so much amazing local produce on our doorstep, it’s no wonder we have an abundance of cool cafés and decent delis.

Mrs Salisbury’s is a totally charming café tucked away down an alley in Maldon and worth hunting out for its tiers of fingerless sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, pastries, yummy salads and vegan bites. They’ve two other locations to visit – one in the Promenade Park and their newest over in Wickahm Bishops.

Tea At The Quay in Mistley is another treat, with bagels, cake, superfood smoothies, muffins and a great cup of coffee, all served with a stunning estuary view until 4pm. The Loft Tea By The Sea in Tollesbury has a vintage vibe, as well as drool-worthy cakes, artworks upstairs and a busy events calendar.

Stop The World Café in Leigh-on-Sea is where the town’s stylish set hang out and tuck into brunch at a chic marble-topped table beneath the awnings, or pick up some delicious bits from Milly’s Deli and picnic on the beach instead (its garden’s a great place to soak up the sun with a beer on a weekend afternoon!).

Sip & Tuck in Colchester, opposite the town’s historic castle, is where to go for a hot chocolate with all the trimmings, freshly ground coffee and to pick up some homemade bits for a picnic in Castle Park. Chelmsford’s slick A Canteen is a popular spot for pizza, handmade burgers, brunches and bottomless dinners. It’s also way more than a café, with Boozy Bingo and comedy nights on the menu. Finally Café on the Water near Billericay has great waterside views and hearty lunch options, like a traditional ploughman’s and cheesy scones. Yum.

KIDS & FAMILY

Of course Essex boasts miles of beaches (see The Great Outdoors below), but this is a county with loads of fun to be had inland too.

Anyone in the fam going through a Thomas The Tank Engine phase will love Audley End’s miniature railway and the stately home and gorgeous gardens aren’t bad either, with lots of family events on.

Spend a day at Colchester Castle, where little ones can explore dungeons, dress up like Romans, discover ancient pottery and jewels, climb on ancient walls and use interactive tablets to bring the exhibits to life. They can then let off steam in the massive playground in the nearby park (there’s an ice cream kiosk with delish flavours btw).

Award-winning Colchester Zoo is always a hit. Kids are wowed by activities like feeding elephants, watching leafcutter ants go about their business and seeing rhinos roam. Don’t miss feeding lorikeets in the exotic aviary, trust us. Tip: the playground’s brilliant but gets packed at lunch and the gift shop is almost impossible to walk through without buying something (the cuddly snakes are irresistible), so little ones might want to put some pocket money aside.

Mountfitchet Castle near Stansted is a totally unique day out for all the family, where you can roam a Norman village and medieval castle but also get spooked in a haunted manor, have a life-sized dinosaur encounter and get nostalgic in a toy museum. We do question whether toys from the Nineties should be in a museum, wasn’t that only a few years ago *cough*?

Kids can kayak, wakeboard, paddleboard or just throw themselves around on the inflatable aqua park at Curve Water Sports in St Osyth, which has a sun-trap lakeside café too. There’s also the fab Mersea Island Watersports in, erm, Mersea to head to for its stand up paddle boarding (SUP), kayaking, windsurfing, sailing and wing foiling.

OUTDOORS

Beaches

Did you know Essex has more than 350 miles of coastline? Well you do now and I’ll point you towards the best bits!

Let’s start with the traditional: by that we mean good old Clacton Pier. Clackers might not have the hipster vibe of Leigh-on-Sea, but if it’s golden sand, pier with a surprisingly large amount of fun things to do and sea you can easily swim in (even kids), then mark it down for a day trip (just maybe avoid August weekends as it does get packed). Similarly, Southend-on-Sea has the popular Blue Flag-rated Thorpe Bay and Three Shells, plus lays claim to the world’s longest pleasure pier, which even has its own railway!

Frinton-on-Sea is one of my favourite beaches in Essex – such a huge expanse of flat, pebble-free sand and usually a calm sea with very gentle waves. Go to Fifties-style Pop-Pins for a Rainbow Donut Shake (trust us on this one); browse the brilliant indie bookshop; then wander along the prom past rows of beautiful beach huts. And you can even rent one! Along the coast is Walton-on-the-Naze, and quieter cliff-backed beach The Naze which is THE place on the coast to hunt for fossilised sharks teeth.

Lesser-known Point Clear is becoming a popular spot for in-the-know kitesurfers and windsurfers (when it’s windy, shock) and kayakers and paddleboarders when it’s calmer. It’s a nature reserve with amazing birdlife, a protective sandbar, narrow tributaries to explore and seems to always have jaw-dropping sunsets. Just remember to check the tide times or you’ll be left high and dry in the mud!

Secret islands

It’s easy to forget Essex is home to dozens of little islands (30 to be precise), more than any other county in England. Muddy’s favourite is Mersea, reachable in a car (though check the tides because the road linking it to the mainland can get cut off, meaning you’re in for a wait!) and home to a vineyard, glamping and great seafood restaurants. You also have Cudmore Grove Country Park (has a great playground kids), pastel beach huts, oyster beds, gold sand beaches and houses that will inspire you to search Rightmove once you’re home.

Osea Island in the River Blackwater near Heybridge is a celebrity magnet. This is the one where legendary parties have occurred without a paparazzi in sight (think Poppy Delevigne, Alexa Chung and Nick Grimshaw weekend-breaking), but mere mortals can stay there too renting out the main house or various cottages. Oh and there are a couple of recording studios (Jessie J, Tinie Tempah, Charli XCX and George Ezra have recorded here) if you fancy indulging your inner Mariah on hols (you never want to hear me sing, by the way).

Two Tree Island is connected by a bridge to the mainland at Leigh-on-Sea. A nature reserve and refuge for a huge variety of birds and other wildlife, you can’t stay but it’s great for a wander. And according to the National Trust, Northey Island is the closest thing you’ll get to true wilderness in Essex; there’s a circular walk, cafés and saltmarshes on this remote spot near Maldon.

Walking & cycling

Hanningfield Reservoir is part of the Essex Wildlife Trust and spans 870 acres of woodlands and meadows, with a labyrinth of foot trails to explore. Epping Forest is a given as a top place to hike, covering thousands of acres from west Essex crossing into east London. Try one of nine waymarked trails, all circular and signposted.

Wivenhoe countryside. Credit: Conor Hennessy

Wivenhoe is one of our favourite towns in the county and its official trail kicks off at the quay leading you along the banks of the River Colne to Colchester (download a free map from the website). Dedham’s Stour Valley walk is possibly the most scenic in the Essex, taking in Flatford Mill, Manningtree’s Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and the countryside made famous by painter John Constable.

Beautiful houses & castles

Want a knight out (sorry, not sorry)? Privately-owned Hedingham Castle is impressive, not just the medieval castle but also its spectacular gardens and lake. Muddy took the mini muddies here once and they LOVED it (check website for events). Colchester Castle, the largest Norman Keep in Europe, is worth a visit and great for families also (see above).

When is comes to grand houses Hylands Estate near Chelmsford is a stunner, though it’s only open to the public (for free) on the third Sunday very month (check website for events). Layer Marney Tower is a show-stopping Tudor building with the tallest gatehouse in Britain, which you can climb before descending and exploring the gardens and inhaling cakes in the café.

THE ONLY WAY IS ESSEX

Ok here’s some fun, quirky, normal-for-Essex info you might want to know before you go. Brightlingsea Lido is where locals sometimes take their kids to splash around when temperatures soar. While you’re there, the town’s jetty is one of the top crabbing spots in the county (you can buy crabbing lines and buckets in the high street), plus sitting with a glass of wine overlooking the marina full of posh yachts at No1 Harbour Square is a tiny bit like being in the South of France (after a bottle of wine and if you squint).

Tiptree is famous for its preserves (if you’ve had breakfast in a posh UK hotel in the last few years the jam is most likely from this Essex town!), and you can visit the jam factory and tea room, which has a lovely secret garden at the back with wisteria and roses. Order an afternoon tea which comes with Tiptree strawberry conserve, home-made scones and fresh cream. Here’s where the tea rooms are to be found.

Essex is famous for its witches (cue cackling), as this is where Witch Finder General Matthew Hopkins hung around to persecute and hang women in the 1600s (sounds like a pretty decent chap, aye?). Discover more in Manningtree and Mistley (there are even ghost walks you can join), and before you go there snap up some of-the-moment WitchLit such as best-selling The Manningtree Witches by A.K Blakemore from indie bookstore Red Lion Bookshop.

The Muddy insider guide to Essex

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